I've had a week to relax now, and I'm finally back on New York time. I don't appear to have malaria, which is always good news (I wasn't taking any prophylaxis and I got bitten about 20 times).

Once again, I'm disappointed about the lack of visuals from my trip. It was even harder to take photos this time around, since the security situation has deteriorated since last time I was there, which of course results in more military. Soldiers -- especially in the developing world -- aren't too keen on having photos taken of them, or of anything else they deem strategic. They have authority to lift your camera if they so choose. Of course, in practice this means if a soldier sees your camera, he'll take it -- regardless of whether you've even taken a photo. Digital cameras fetch a good price.

On top of that, the reactions of people when you ask to take their photo are often unpredictable. I find Chadians generally to fall into one of two categories: "don't you dare take my photo", or "please take my photo 27 times and let me see each and every one and then show my friends". I understand both of these reactions, but neither of them is particularly helpful when you're in a hurry. So those are my excuses.

The only pictures I managed to take are of this car, which is one of the "private taxis" I was telling you about. Click on the images for a better view.


It looks in great shape in this shot because it is freshly washed. Great shape, that is, for what it is -- a rattling, shimmying death trap with no doorhandles. The proud owner of this contraption is a chap named Yaya, who is a driver by day and a pimp by night. I'm not sure which is more profitable, but let's just say it's not something you like to consider when you're sitting in the backseat of Yaya's ride.

I took the first two of these photos hastily, figuring Yaya would be offended if he caught me snapping shots of his shit heap. But no -- when he came back, Yaya was only too happy to pose for a picture with his baby. This picture (above) is typical of a Chadian posing for a picture: it's a complete setup. There's no such thing as a candid photo; everything is, well, posed. Yaya chose to have himself working under the hood. Appropriate, no?